3 Hip Details About Deep Shower Trays

Let's face it. Showers are the bathing choice of just about everybody. So if your bathroom has ended up being a family traffic jam due to the fact that you don't have enough shower stalls or the one you have is dripping, keep reading. We'll reveal you how to change a leaky base (aka shower base), change a tub with a shower just or install an extra shower to handle demand. Preformed shower bases have vastly simplified the installation process. They're essentially leakproof and are vastly easier to install than traditional strong mortar bases.

Still, setting a base can be difficult, particularly when you're redesigning older pipes. In this post, we'll show you how to rip out an old tub and change it with a one-piece fiberglass shower base. We'll stroll you through the tricky parts, first how to move the drain ideal, then the required venting. Next, we'll demonstrate how to set a rock-solid base-- one that won't break or leakage down the road. Our detailed instructions will take you right approximately the point where the walls are ready to complete. However we won't enter into those finish details here.

This is mostly a pipes task. To take it on, you should be familiar with fundamental pipe joining techniques. Mainly this involves cutting and sealing plastic pipelines and fittings. Don't fret if you make errors. The products are economical and corrections are easily made by eliminating sections and installing brand-new fittings and pipelines.

Finishing this task-- getting the old tub out, remodeling the pipes and setting up the new base-- will take a Saturday a minimum of, a weekend at most. If you have to run a drain line through joists or studs, we recommend that you rent a 1/2-in. right-angle drill and a 2-in. hole saw (or bit). Otherwise, fundamental plumbing tools and hand tools are all you'll need. Make sure to get a plumbing permit and have actually an inspection done at the rough-in phase (when everything is still exposed) and after everything is complete (wall surface areas ended up, last hardware set up).

Planning the Job

Start by deciding on the size of the shower base and purchasing it. Shipment can take weeks, so do not rip anything apart until the new one remains in hand. If you're changing an existing base, merely get one the exact same size. If you're changing a tub with a shower as we did, there are more details to consider. You'll have the least issues if you match the brand-new base to the old tub's width (the front of the tub to the wall). Go wider if you like, but you might need to change flooring. Or you might exceed needed minimum ranges from toilets and sinks. You may need to move the supply valve as well. Keeping the exact same tub footprint (or smaller) minimizes the troubles.

We replaced a 5-ft. tub with a relatively large 4-ft. base the very same width as the tub. We framed a 1-ft.- wide filler wall at the end, which is a nice place to develop recessed specific niches and shelves for shower materials.

Now's a great time to buy a new shower valve too, particularly if your old one does not have scald defense, as all new ones do. It's a huge project to change a valve that stops working after tile or wall panels are set up.

You'll require an assortment of pipes and fittings for installing the new drain and for remodeling water lines. Pick them up after you open up the flooring and walls. At that point, you can see what you need, plan the brand-new drain and supply of water runs and make a list of products. Make a sketch like Figure A to help you keep track of parts.

Shower Base/Drain Details

Make a sketch of the task that consists of the waste, vent and supply of water. Drawing the information will assist prevent possible issues and also minimize the number of journeys to the hardware shop.

It's also essential to note that you will not be able to enter a house center and walk out with a 4-ft.- long shower tray like the one we display in this task. Ask to go through the pipes fixture books there to special-order one that suits your bath decor and budget plan. Some come with drain adapters, as ours did. You'll have to inspect and buy a separate shower drain set if needed. The manufacturer's instructions will assist you choose the best one.

There is another (however more costly) alternative if you 'd like to avoid all of the additional venting and drain work. Select a shower base that has the drain located at one end, right or left, selected to match your old tub drain. Select one the exact same length as the tub and you will not even need to include filler walls. Given that the drain position approximately matches the tub drain, you may not have to include a separate vent, cut out and spot the flooring, or reroute the drain line.

Eliminate the Wall

Initially, loosen the showerhead and the tub spout. Most styles will loosen, however some will need persuasion with a pipe wrench. If you want to recycle any parts, wrap the tool jaws with a cloth to prevent damage. Then eliminate the manage and blending valve escutcheon cover. A lot of manages have a little plastic cap that pops off to expose a screw. Remove the screws and manage the deal with and the escutcheon.

Next, strip off the tub surround. Begin by cutting entirely through the drywall around the border with an utility knife. If you have cement board behind the tile, merely cut through the tape joint at the ceiling and strip the whole wall. Rip off the tile and drywall together in huge portions. If you have a fiberglass surround with a flange behind the drywall, cut 2 in. outside of the enclosure and pry the areas totally free one at a time.

Detach the Plumbing

With the wall open, detach the plumbing and turned off the main supply of water valve. Normally, you can access the trap from an access panel in the space behind the tub or from an unfinished basement. If you do not have gain access to, you'll need to cut a hole in the wall from behind the tub base. If your shutoff valves remain in good shape, cut off the water lines above them. If they're missing, stuck or rusted, shut off the primary supply valve, cut off the water lines and install 2 compression fitting-- design ball valves and leave them in the closed position so you can turn the water back on to the remainder of the house. Cover the ends with tape to stay out debris.

Get rid of the Tub

Detach the trap from the tub drain, then lift the tub free from the wall. Fiberglass and steel tubs are relatively light, so you can just tip them up and carry them away. If framing makes it challenging to take out, cut out more drywall along the pipes wall. Then you can pull the tub far from the wall prior to you tip it up. Cast iron tubs, on the other hand, are incredibly heavy, and we advise just busting them up with a sledgehammer and performing the pieces. (Lay an old blanket over the tub to capture flying fragments, and wear shatterproof glass for this!).

Mark the New Drain.

Snug the new shower approximately the wall studs and mark the drain hole.

Cut a Gain Access To Slot.

Put the new shower aside and draw an access slot on the subfloor, roughing in the new P-trap and drain line. Make the slot about a foot broad and extend it simply beyond the brand-new drain location. Keep the edges of the slot over the center of the joists any place you can to make patching simpler later. Pull any nails that fall within the cutting lines. Then set your blade depth to cut simply through the subfloor, make the cut and pry it totally free. Make certain to make reference marks on the floor outside the slot so you can relocate the center of the drain as soon as you remove the floor covering.

Cut a Path for the Drain.

With the floor and wall open, you can prepare your new drain and vent lines. Revamping drain and vent lines will be a little various with every restroom, however our pictures and Figure A will give you the basic concept in addition to a take a look at the numerous fittings you may need.

The two secrets for adding a drain are to ensure the horizontal lines slope 1/4 in. for each running foot which the P-trap opening falls directly below the shower drain hole. Start by measuring the height of the center of the existing drain line and the distance to the new drain. Cut off the old P-trap, then run the drain line to the new drain location. Drill 2-in. holes through the floor joists for the brand-new drain line. Reference marks help you find the drain center later.

Keep in mind to enable 1/4-in.- per-foot slope when you drill holes in joists. Drill 2-in. holes to leave some space to move the 1-1/2- in. pipeline up or down to get the essential slope. But do not drill in the lower or upper 2 in. of any joist. Most shower drains pipes are created to get 2-in. piping, while a lot of existing tub drains pipes are 1-1/2 in. The plumbing code requires the transition to be made with a reducer straight below the shower, no place else.

Set Up the Sanitary Tee.

To run the brand-new vent, mark a section of primary stack for elimination utilizing the 3 x 1-1/2- in. tee (with 6-in.- long nipples) as a guide. Cement 6-in.- long nipples to both ends of a 3 x 1-1/2- in. hygienic tee, then mark and cut the primary stack. Join it to the stack with shift couplings.

Run the Vent.

If your tub didn't have a vent, you'll probably need to include one. A regional pipes inspector will inform you the rules (usually within 42 in. of the shower P-trap) when you make an application for a license. The brand-new vent should join the primary vent at least 6 in. above any "spill lines" (that usually means sink rims) that share the vent. If your primary stack will be plastic, cutting it is easy with a hand or reciprocating saw with an 8-in. blade. If you have cast iron, you'll have to rent a pipe snapper to make it.

Run the vent line down to the drain by drilling 2-in. holes through the studs, sloping far from the tee 1/4 in. for every single 1 ft. of run.

Dry-Fit the Waste and Vent.

Cut all the pipes and dry-fit the new vent line and drain line fittings one at a time, working your method toward the P-trap. Start cementing the parts together. If you're using PVC, hold the parts together for about 20 seconds after sealing. Otherwise, the parts will "squirt" apart prior to the solvent cures. Conserve the P-trap-to-drain-line connection for last. Cement it together, and rapidly plumb the P-trap with a 6-in. level before the joint sets.

Usage reference marks on the subfloor to tweak the place of the drain. Set the shower base in place to verify the last placement of the P-trap, placing a short, short-term tailpiece. When you set the deep shower tray permanently, measure and cut a long-term tailpiece and cement it into location. Your building inspector will wish to see the drain and vent (and possibly the water system rough-in) prior to you close up the floor.

Close the Floor

Add obstructing to strengthen unsupported plywood edges and screw a spot to the framing with 1-5/8- in. screws. We included a 2nd layer of 1/2-in. underlayment under the entire shower for a tougher flooring and to better match the ended up floor height (1/2-in. backer board and tile). If you require to protect the initial floor height, skip the second layer, however include obstructing under the single-layer spot to fully support the shower base.

Mount the Mixing Valve and Redo the Supply Lines

Unless you're planning to reuse all of the existing supply lines and valves, simply cut out and remove whatever and begin fresh. Utilize a hacksaw or a reciprocating saw.

If you've picked a shower base that's broader than the tub, center the new mixing valve and showerhead over the base. Select a valve height that's comfortable to reach and clears any barriers, and ensure the showerhead lands either above or listed below the leading edge of the shower enclosure or tile. Mount the blending valve first, following the producer's instructions, and run new CPVC or copper tubing from the ball valve to the blending valve and showerhead. Cap the tub spout outlet on the underside of the blending valve. You'll need to include blocking to support it.

There might be a threaded nipple or hole in the bottom of the blending valve for a tub spout. Be sure to top that. After whatever is together, shut down the blending valve, switch on the water and look for leakages.

Level the Base and Mark the Studs

Level the shower base upon all 4 edges, shimming where required. Mark the lip where it abuts studs. Step, cut and cement the last tailpiece to the P-trap. Take your time. Getting the base level is vital for good drain. Mark the lip height on the studs and lay out the shim areas so you can lift out the base and return it to the exact position. Some bases need that you fit it over a tailpiece when you set it in the mortar.

Set the Base in Mortar

To set the base, blend about half a 60-lb. bag of mortar with water to a velvety consistency. Avoid concrete mix; stones in the mix will hold the base far from the floor. Spread the mortar over the flooring under the base, about 1 in. or two thick. Then lower the base into the damp mix, requiring it down to the shims and the stud marks. Make certain to push it versus the wall. Let it cure over night. Don't utilize the base as a work platform till the next day or you'll interrupt the mortar before it cures. Clamp the base lip to each stud if clamps are included with the system. Otherwise, clamp it with fender washers and 2-in. screws. Avoid drilling through the lip and screwing the base directly to the studs. The base might split and leak.

Total the Drain Connection

The brand-new shower stall base will have instructions to assist you through the final drain hookup; your drain system might differ from ours. However our shower stall bases directions were to anchor the base to the studs with screws and washers and after that push the rubber gasket into place and seat it with a nut chauffeur. Fundamental instructions for how to finish the drain connection for the brand-new shower stall base are to cut the tailpiece and cement it at the best height. If your drain has a thick rubber gasket, damp it with soapy water and after that work it around the tailpiece pipe. End up seating it by driving it down with a blunt tool.

Drain pipes Cover

Attach the drain cover to the drain opening.

Total Shower Framing

Frame completion wall at least 80 in. high for shower doors and curtain rods. Furthermore, our base was shorter than the old tub, leaving a space in between the wall and the base. We filled out the area with a 2x4 wall. Add backing where the brand-new walls meet existing ones to make the connection strong and for anchoring backer board. And if you leave it short of the ceiling as we did, you can include a hassle-free integrated shelf.

Copper vs. CPVC

If you're comfortable dealing with and soldering copper, by all means, go ahead and utilize it for your supply of water lines. We reveal CPVC plastic fittings due to the fact that the installation is as easy as cutting and cementing plastic fittings, just as you make with plastic drain and vent lines. To make the shift from copper to CPVC, use compression fittings as shown. You'll find all the CPVC fittings and pipes you require at any hardware store or home center.